Semana Santa in Málaga
A beginner's guide to Holy Week in Andalucía. Plus: some big events coming up in Málaga, why Córdoba is having a moment, and what to eat in León.
Greetings from Málaga, where the scent of orange blossoms is in the air and blue skies have returned after a very rainy March. Along with warmer weather and lighter evenings comes the promise of Semana Santa just around the corner, and the buzz is well and truly building for this year’s Holy Week festivities (April 13-20).
Although I’m not religious at all, I love Semana Santa here. From the striking visuals of the processional floats with their flickering candles, fresh flowers and elaborate decorations, to the scent of incense and the music of the huge brass bands, it truly is a multi-sensory experience.
But more than that, it’s the sense of community that I find so moving to witness as an outsider.
The floats, or tronos (thrones) as they are called, are enormously heavy and need hundreds of people to carry them, shoulder to shoulder, sometimes for 12 hours more.
As Brendan Boyle put it in a recent post on his SubStack La Comunidad, Spanish society is designed around the “we” not the “me”. After five years of living in Spain, I know that to be true.
The communal experience is a core part of life here, and the processions of Semana Santa show that on a vast scale.
On the blog:
🕯️ Semana Santa in Málaga for beginners
I’ve written to two-part guide to Semana Santa in Málaga. Part one is a backgrounder, covering the history, cultural context, music (some overlap with my Andalucía Day playlist here), and more.
Part two has some practical tips if you’re planning a visit during Semana Santa, including a day-by-day guide to some of the most popular processions.
Spain travel news
✨ Noche en Blanco date announced: Pop this in your diary if you’re in Málaga later this Spring: one of the most popular nights of the year will take place on 10 May. Museums and galleries will be open until late with free entry, and the city centre will be transformed with free performances and immersive art experiences. Here’s a video I made of last year’s event to give you a taste.
💥 Comic-Con is coming: Continuing the Málaga news, the pop culture behemoth that is San Diego Comic-Con is coming to the Costa del Sol, the first time in its 56-year history that it’s taken place outside the United States. As Sur in English puts it, this is on par with Seville hosting the Latin Grammy Awards last year. It’s going to be big.
🕌 Córdoba is having a moment: The UK’s Sunday Times has picked Córdoba as its number-one European city break destination for 2025, to which I can only say, what took you so long? If you’ve been following my Instagram you’ll know how obsessed I am with this Andalucían city, with its fascinating past, stunning architecture and flower-filled patios. Not to mention the food… Stay tuned for a city guide on the blog soon.
🌇 Late nights at Madinat al-Zahra: Speaking of Córdoba’s architecture, this archaeological site on the outskirts of the city is extending its weekend opening hours for the next few months (21 March - 20 June). On Fridays and Saturdays, you can visit until 9pm and catch the sunset over the ruins of the Shining City of the medieval Caliphate of Córdoba.
Random list of the month
🥘 Five of the best… Things to eat in León
It’s been quite a southern Spain-heavy newsletter this time so here’s a taste of the north to balance things out.
León is a city that wasn’t even on my radar until I lived in Spain, and the best part of discovering it was doing so courtesy of my friend Carmen, a proud leonesa who loves to show off her city.
Tapas in Barrio Húmedo. This historic neighbourhood near the city’s stunning gothic cathedral is packed full of bars, and is one of the few places in Spain where the tradition of getting a free tapa with each drink is still going strong. Sit down, order a drink and wait to see what they bring you with it.
Cecina de León. The city is famous for this cured meat that can be described as “beef jamón”. Delicious with toasted almonds as an aperitivo, it’s so popular here you can even buy it in vending machines.
Tortilla guisada. AKA “Stewed tortilla”, this is a version of the ever-popular Spanish omelette that’s cooked in a rich red pepper sauce. Try it in La Cueva del Cura, a restaurant in a former wine cave in the nearby village of Valdevimbre with a rustic candlelit ambience.
Cherries. León province, with its hot summers and cold winters, has ideal conditions for stonefruit growing. The region of Bierzo produces some of the best cherries in Spain, known for their perfect balance between sweetness and acidity.
Patatas bravas at Cafetería Las Torres. No tapas crawl is complete without a visit here for their delicious potatoes in spicy bravas sauce, a local favourite.
Hasta la proxima!
Amy
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